Why early identification matters on the green

A bowling green is a fine, tightly mown surface, which makes it vulnerable. Leatherjackets, worm castings and fungal patches can all spoil the roll of a bowl, but they rarely arrive without warning. Look closely, often and early. If you can name the problem while it is still small, you can usually manage it with cultural methods — aeration, topdressing, dew removal, balanced feeding — rather than harsh chemicals. That is better for the green, the soil life beneath it and everyone who plays. Keep a simple log as you go, and you will soon spot patterns that make future decisions easier.

Leatherjackets: the hidden grubs beneath your feet

Leatherjackets are the larvae of crane flies, and they feed on roots and stem bases. On a bowling green, the first clue is often a patch that yellows, thins and loses density. Birds such as rooks and starlings may probe the surface, leaving small holes. Damage is worst in autumn and early spring, when larvae are active and soil is moist.

To check, cut a spade-sized square of turf about 50mm deep, fold it back and count the larvae in the soil and roots. Repeat in several spots. On finer turf, even a modest population can cause trouble, so record what you find. Keep the surface firm, avoid overwatering in late summer, and encourage deep rooting with sensible aeration. If numbers are high, seek advice on biological controls suited to your site and timing.

• Signs: yellowing, thinning patches; bird activity; spongy turf.
• Timing: autumn and early spring, especially after wet weather.
• Check: lift a spade square and count larvae.

Worms and their castings

Earthworms are usually a sign of healthy soil, but on a bowling green their castings are a nuisance. They soften the surface, create unevenness and can smother fine grasses. Worms are most active in mild, wet weather, so castings often appear after rain or heavy dew. The problem is the casting, not the worm itself.

You can reduce casting without waging war on soil life. Keep the surface pH closer to neutral, avoid unnecessary lime, and remove dew early with a switch or hose. Regular topdressing helps dilute castings and smooth the surface. If casting is severe, a light harrow or drag mat can spread the material before it sets. Record where and when castings appear, as this often points to drainage or moisture patterns.

• Signs: small coils or mounds of soil on the surface, often after wet weather.
• Timing: mild, damp periods, particularly autumn and spring.
• Action: dew removal, topdressing, pH management and gentle surface grooming.

Fungal patches and localised dry patch

Fungal problems love damp, mild conditions and a layer of thatch. Fusarium patch, also called Microdochium patch, shows as orange-brown, roughly circular patches that can merge. In morning dew, you may see faint white or pinkish mycelium around the edges. Red thread is easier to spot: pinkish-red threads on leaf blades, often in late summer or autumn when grass is hungry. Dollar spot creates small, silver, disc-like patches.

Localised dry patch is different. It appears as irregular patches that will not rewet, even after rain or irrigation. The soil becomes hydrophobic, and grass above wilts and dies. Check by pushing a trowel into the soil: if it is bone dry beneath a damp surface, dry patch is likely. Always inspect roots, soil and dew pattern before deciding on treatment.

• Fusarium: orange-brown circles; white mycelium in dew.
• Red thread: pink-red threads on leaves, often with low fertility.
• Dollar spot: small silver patches in warm, humid conditions.
• Dry patch: irregular dry spots that repel water; soil dry beneath.

Other suspects: chafer grubs, ants, moss and algae

Chafer grubs are larger, C-shaped and creamy white, and they also feed on roots. They can cause similar thinning and bird damage to leatherjackets, so check the size and shape of any grubs you find. Ants build small mounds that dull the surface and can undermine root growth. Moss and algae are not pests in the usual sense, but they thrive where drainage is poor, shade is heavy, fertility is low or the surface stays wet. Their presence is a clue that something deeper needs attention.

Look at the whole picture. A patch of moss on a shaded edge may need pruning or airflow, not a chemical. Algae on a damp green edge often signals compaction. By noting these secondary problems in your log, you can address the cause rather than just the symptom.

Keeping a simple log and acting with care

A notebook or a simple spreadsheet is enough. Record date, time, weather, location and what you saw. Add a photograph if it helps. Note any action taken and what happened next. Over a season, this log becomes a powerful tool: you will see when leatherjackets usually appear, which greens drain poorly after rain, and whether your cultural programme is reducing disease.

• Date and weather: temperature, rain, dew, wind.
• Location: which green, which rink, which edge.
• Observation: pest, disease or disorder, plus size and spread.
• Action: what you did, when and with what.
• Result: change after 3, 7 and 14 days.

With good notes, you can often act early and gently. Remove dew, improve airflow, aerate, topdress and feed according to soil tests. If a chemical is ever needed, follow the label precisely and take advice from a qualified agronomist. But the best defence is a healthy, well-managed sward — and a greenkeeper or volunteer who knows what they are looking at.